Fast Boat to Japan

It is the sixth day of January, yet part of me is thinking “Wow four months down eight to go.” another “four days – has it really only been four days?”. Josh left yesterday. I am so thankful that he was able to take the full three weeks of his vacation. He arrived in Chicago at about 6 PM (or 10 AM ish my time)Fun to try and wrap your brain around. He arrived in Chicago according to the clocks only a couple hours after he left Seoul. Which is good because he has to start teaching first think Monday morning. Oh the jet lag will be fun!!

Okay enough of that I guess you want to here about the long awaited Hiroshima visit. Let me say straight off that it was not as soul shaking as the North Korea trip. There are very few if only one remaining structure from that day. There is a park (the Peace Park) located near where the bomb exploded. Now everything in this area was destroyed and the people there killed instantly; however, there is one building – the Administration Building – in which part of the structure survived. You can see a few nighttime pictures of this building on my blog. This building is now called the A-bomb Dome – named so for well the bomb and the metal skeleton of the dome that is still standing. This building is located at one end of the park with the monument to the victims and eternal flame in the center and the Museum at the other end. Unfortunately, because of the holiday the museum was closed. I am actually kind of glad about this. Josh and I being who we are – are very prone to spending much of our time in museums – things being closed meant we went out to explore the city more.

Now how did we get to Japan. Well, from Busan there is a speed ferry that runs from Korea to Fukuoko, Japan. This ferry only takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes – running break neck speed across the East Sea (or Sea of Japan depending on which country you are in). The trip over was quite lovely. The weather was kind and we actually got a few moments of sunshine hitting the water. Simply amazing to look out and see nothing but water and sky in ever direction for as far as you can see. I found myself a couple of times closing my eyes and envisioning a globe – go ahead go get one now I can wait – here we are crossing that yes what seem in the scope of things a skinny stretch of water between Korea and Japan – in a boat that as far as size is no bigger that a rather impressive yacht. It holds probably 500 people between its two floors. So that ride went smoothly, after going through immigration and customs (which by the way – man they questioned us – I mean nothing mean or unusual but compared to coming into Korea or North Korea for that sake – Japanese customs agents ask a lot of questions) we took a public bus to the train station. First thing I learned that I never really thought about Japan doing – they drive on the left! I never really thought of that being so there. Now since I had only been around North American and Korea (where they drive on the right) it was fun to catch a glimpse of a car and think for just a moment “oh my there is no one driving”.

We go to the Hakata Train Station and were able to get our tickets and right onto an express train that would get us to Hiroshima in about an hour. Second thing that surprised me, they have smoking cars on the train. This we discovered while walking back through the train to find a seat. I opened the door to a face of smoke. Well yes let’s keep moving. Oh which there are loads of cigarette and alcohol vending machines on the street in the Fukuoka and Hiroshima. What a hoot! There are also vending machines on the trains – I did not see alcohol – I was looking for a coke and a water. So we get to Hiroshima and make our way to the hostel. Now there are three forms of public transportation in Hiroshima – subway (which we never rode), bus, and streetcar. Yep good old fashioned streetcars with all there clanking and squeaking. This is how we got around most of the time. So with very good directions from the hostel we grabbed a streetcar and went to check in to our room. now if you are ever traveling on the cheap and find yourself in Japan – look up J-Hoppers. They are a chain of accommodations that offer great private for a reasonable price (3,000 Yen = about $29/ per person per night). They private rooms are all Japanese sleeping arrangement so that means with mats on the floor. I must say they are very generous with the mats, padding, and blanks because is was very comfortable.

Being rather dark out by this hour and us very tired, we decided to get some food and take a little walk. We asked the young lady at the front desk what she would suggest as far as food. She said without a doubt a dish called Okonomyaki. We ended up eating this dish at two different places while we were there. There is also a picture of it in my photos. It was so good. Basically, it is an omelet so sorts – starting bottom to top there is a thin layer of a kind of crepe, then Udon noodles, then shredded cabbage, then meat or seafood, then other toppings of choice (I went with shallots and Kimchi), them a fried eggs with a brown sauce. If you ever in a restaurant that serves this ORDER IT – you will not be sorry.

After dinner we walked over to the Peace Park across the river – this is were the A-bomb Dome is at – this is also where I had me first surprising impression of being underwhelmed. Please do not get me wrong the building is very speaking. You look at the photos of it before the attack and then you see the immediate after effect. It stripped the concrete off the brick, but then you look around and see that the people who live here have cleaned up, built up, and move forward rather well. Okay let me correct that statement – you get a sense of the city not being in that building and this park being rather separate from the citizens – you do not see how much until you walk around the other parts of Hiroshima.

Since the museums were closed we decided to go to Miyajima island. We had read a couple recommendations and seen a few picture and thought that would be a good day trip. The main picture we had seen was the orange colored gate out in the water. We had heard that at low tide you can actually walk you to the gate. Unfortunately, the water was never low enough when we were there. However, we did have a very pleasant surprise. Little Deer!! Little Deer Everywhere!!! To get to this island you take one of the streetcars to the end of its line – which is a port. You get on a ferry (yeah more boats) which is part of the public transportation system – and that ferry drops you off right at the village on the island. Now this “village” does have really residents but it does almost seem fake – kind or a Japanese Ren Faire of sorts. You pick-up a map as you come through the visitor’s center and the layout leads you gently into a long, narrow avenue of restaurants and shops. But before the shopping and eating there are the little deer. These deer are only about as tall as my waist, roam free, and in no way afraid of people. In fact be careful if you have food in you pocket or even a tasty smelling wrapper of food gone by – they do not discriminate.

As we walked through the shops and eventually up the hills through some of the shrines and pagodas, I have never seen the weather change so quickly. The weather changed from blue skies to wind and large snowflakes in a heartbeat at least seven times during our visit. I even tried to get a few photos of the pagodas with the snow falling. In the photos from this trip, find the one of the shrine with the canned pineapple offering. LOL- ornate little statues with a stack of three cans of fruit on either side. And huge cooked oysters sold on the street for as much as you might pay for a hot dog in the park. Josh was loving it. Also with this trip, I got to check of a shopping goal of mine – I have a Kimono!!!! Nothing fancy. There was a shop that have second hand Kimonos for sale. For those who may not know, the look of the formal Kimono is created by wearing multiple layers of surcoats that are then bound at the waist. What I purchased is just one layer and would usually be worn under a more luxurious layer. Mine is a kind of peach-yellow color. It reminds me of a sunset as seen in the reflection of water. The best part is that it was very, very inexpensive and it is now MINE. I have a Kimono bought in Japan. And yes I did a little dance!

Later that evening after returning to the city, we walked through the Peace Park again and then went towards the main downtown area. Oh my word, I through some of the Korean fashion was a hoot. They have nothing on the Japanese fashionista. It at times is really hard to figure out who is female or male – as well to calculate how much neck strength it takes to hold up the hairstyle. Anyway, we walked over to the downtown area where we were entertained by an animatronic doll display outside a department store to the tune of “It’s a Small World After All”. I nearly split a rib. There is no lack of posh establishments in which to spend your money – be it food or fashion. There was one area about five blocks long with a roof to guard you from the elements while you window shop. And then very abruptly you go from Las Vegas to Boston. As you reach the end of this colorful are, the street turns and releases you onto another shopping area that remaindered me very much of Newbury Street in Boston or Armitage in Chicago. The buildings are all very short and have this Colonial – Victorian blend. Ornate street lamps light your way. Add to this the cars on the left side of the road and it really messes with your sense of geography. This is not exactly what I was expecting.

The next day we headed back to Fukuoka to take the ferry to Busan. I really wanted to celebrate the New Year on the beach, and frankly Hiroshima is not know for its beaches. This is where our trip got a bit adventurous. As a mentioned before the weather had been rather temperamental. This temperament extended itself to the condition of the water. As we walked down the stairs to the walkway to the lovely little speed boat, we could see relatively calmer waters of the harbor rocking the boat rather far from one side to the other. At this sight I could not help myself from giggling. I turned back to Josh and said “oh this is going to be fun”. And I am still laughing writing about this. SEASICKNESS!!
Like the great sea voyages of old there were green faced and barf bag a plenty. Now before I go into the condition of my brave, stoic, and darling man, I will admit I threw up twice. Once they boat was under way, I decided I would simple put my head down, close my eyes and try to ride this out (all three hours that where to come). Just under an hour out I could feel it coming on. All the breakfast I had not really eaten that morning was trying to make a rushing pass towards freedom. Now folks I have a theory. Do not fight the pressure. I hold to this idea very strongly in burping and throwing up. Release the pressure and you will feel better. So before it got to the point in which I could not make it to the restroom, I decided to stand up and walk to the restroom. And I will save you the details – I will say this – I felt better.

I can back to my seat to see my poor darling looking as if he could have died there and then. And as I stepped over him to my seat, I said “Darling, it’s okay. Just throw up – you will feel better. By the time my butt hit the seat, he had opened the barf bag and was well barfing. Oh poor thing. Now the people I really feel bad for were the attendants of this voyage. These fine ladies were walking around with plastic bags collecting the used barf bags, dispensing motion sickness pills, and fresh bags. One of these lovely ladies did give Josh a pill, but he was so sick he could not stomach the idea of swallowing it. I fell asleep for about an hour and then was woken up to sound of not only Josh but a few other people throwing up around me. And well what can I say I am a sympathy pucker. There goes my second round. Okay twice was enough. I looked down and saw the pill that the attendant gave Josh – asked him if he was using it – he said no so I took it. Oh that was good. I was out like a light and never felt another think. I woke up 10 minutes before we docked. I wish I could say the same for Josh.

Fear not my friends. We got on land – through immigration – and to our hotel. That evening we had a big dinner and went for a walk. Man I write too much. Before this gets any longer I will stop. I will continue next time with New Year’s Eve, the DMZ, and South Korean Propaganda videos.