Christmas in Seoul

Merry Day After Christmas All! Well, I am now back at work. Although public schools, banks, and government offices are closed on Christmas Day, the rest of the city is up and running. The rest of the week is business as usual. This is the last week of school. I think I have mentioned before that the school year here starts in March and ends in December. So I am looking ahead to three weeks of a special winter camp (it is only Monday through Friday for 3 hours a day so no big deal) and then five weeks of vacation. I love it!!!

So the question on everyone’s mind: What is Christmas like in Korea? Except for the lack of real hype, it’s very similar. Christianity is very strong here. The two main religions are Christian (Protestant and Catholic) and Buddhist. The one notable difference is that unlike the west it is preserved here as a religious holiday. The Christmas Tree at City Hall has a huge cross on top. Something people would complain about at home. Koreans seem to have a better sense of differing religions that we do. If someone states they believe one thing, no one will complain or try to argue them out of it. Now some of you many think this is because the Christians here are not as “pushy” or “open” about their beliefs as people at home. WRONG!! Your religious beliefs are frequently one of the first questions you will get here after your age and marriage status. I have been asked a number of times – once by a teller at the bank. People who are not Christians here understand that this is a celebration for this religion and why should I care if I am not included – I do not believe what they believe. A lot better than people whining about nativity scenes at home.

So for Josh and I Christmas went like this – one Sunday my church had a Christmas party (well the English service did). It was very fun – lots of food and performance from the different groups. Most of the people who come to the English service do not speak English as their first language. Many are from Africa, Europe, and India – and are studying at the universities here. One thing that was very funny was that every time the guy leading music introduced a song he would say “this is a very popular/famous Christmas song”. He would say this for songs like “Hark the Herald Angels Sing” or “Joy to the World”. And Josh and I looked at each other with an unspoken “well dah”. Forgetting that “oh yes Popular to us but perhaps not as well known to someone from some place else”. Oops. We did feel really bad when they started singing verses to some of the songs in which the songs are so old that many of the words are not spoken in English anymore. So here are people who do not speak English as their native language, not heard these songs over and over, year after year – and are being asked to sing words and phrases that are 200 years old. Does not exactly roll of the tongue easily. Then on Christmas Eve, I worked during the day so later we went out to eat. We actually went to an Outback for dinner funny as that was. We needed to pick up our train tickets to Busan for Friday so we ran over there real fast and since I use the subway here to traveling through the city most of the time – Josh has had little opportunity to see above ground so we took a cab back to my place. This is where he got his first taste of how ridiculously crowded this city is – traffic was so bad, but cabs are rather cheap here so that was not that expensive.

Now for those of you who have never been around Josh at Christmas time – I am very sorry. He is the best – he gets so excited about everything and will spontaneously start jumping up and down chanting “one more day ‘til Christmas, one more day ‘til Christmas”. It is like being around an excited seven year old except with none of the annoying whining. So Christmas morning we opened presents and went to church. This time it was an all-Korean service. It was rather interesting. Did not understand a word of it, but it was nice just to see how they did a Christmas service which really was not any different than a church at home. The really fun part for me was while singing. They sing the same Christmas songs as us but only in Korean of course. Well, one thing we noticed was that they tend to sing all the verses – even the really obscure ones no one at home knows. So for all the verses we did know we sang them in English, but for all the verses we did not know I sang them in Korean. You see, they were kind enough to project the Korean words on a large screen for the congregation and since many Christmas songs are rather slow – I was able to read the Korean words on the screen and sing along. I felt very smart!!!!!!

After church we went to visit one of the larger palaces – Changdeokgung. I had already gone there (it is the palace where all of the color fall pictures are from). I think it is one of the more stunning places in the city so I wanted to make sure to take Josh there. It was also a nice diversion from all of the crowded streets and shops. Unlike home where public places are pretty much deserted on Christmas Day, Seoul was completely packed. Everyone is out shopping, eating, and sightseeing. No one stays at home - all 10, 356,000 of the cities residences plus their out of town visitors hit the streets. It is wild. Luckily we found a nice quiet restaurant for lunch. Funny things was it was Josh’s first real Korean meal since arriving on Monday.

By this time, it was starting to get dark. All of the downtown/city hall area is wire for light. I have never seen something so involved or, as stated earlier, crowded. We headed over to that area to wait for the lights to go on. The real fun came with the collective gasp and oooooo from the crowd when everything finally lit up. We then walked over to Deoksuggung (another palace) where it was much quieter and had a bit more breathing room. The buildings are all lit up from the inside at night – it was beautiful. It was kind of like walking through a giant Chinese lantern. It made for a very nice end to a wonderful day.

Tonight we are packing for Japan. We will be in Hiroshima Saturday, Sunday, and Monday. I plan on having at least a few comments. Take care. I will write again next week.

Josh's Thoughts

Hello All!

Jennifer is at work, but has asked me to post a few thoughts regarding my initial impressions of South Korea, this definitely intreaguing land in which she currently resides. I shall begin with a few comments about my trip here, and then delve into a description of my early experiences.

The trip here was definitely a long one. We left Chicago around 11am this past Sunday. The few days prior had been rather consumed by getting grades in, applications for grad school out (PhD...we're hoping), and presents and such for all the folks at home (hi mom!)...needless to say Saturday night was a long one, and I was enthralled with the idea of being able to sleep for 14 hours, with little but the person next to me to concern myself with. It was an American Airlines flight, legroom was left to be desired (good grief!), and the entertainment feature (flat screen tv's in our chairs)--didn't work...but even though we left an hour and a half late, I brought my IPOD and an 850 page book on the Beatles...so aside from slumber their would be things to occupy my time.
Aside from those few woes, the flight wasn't that bad. We got into Tokyo ahead of time, and I made a connecting flight to Incheon. Interestingly enough, the flight on Japan Airlines had more legroom, but the food was rather questionable. I believe the sandwich was on a whole wheat role, but was a combination of something that looked like potato salad, and a slice of something that resembled salami (although Jennifer states that it was probably fried spam, which is something they enjoy here). Although we were a little late making it in to Incheon, I was very happy at the prospect of seeing Jennifer. After waiting a great deal of time for my bags (which given all the fudge and goodies inside them, I wondered if they'd survived--they had), we met just outside customs and took a bus ride into the city. I wasn't able to see much due to the fact that it was night, and I got in after 9pm on Monday, and had been on a plane or in an airport since just before 11am Sunday--Jennifer noted that we would explore a bit in the coming days.
Since then we have had some time to explore, and it has been rather wondrous. I have explored a little on my own while Jennifer is at work, and when she is not, we have ventured to a few places together. My impressions of Korea have been formed a little by MASH, but rooted more in the pictures and stories she has provided. Infrastructure is a bit different here, social organization is also a bit different. While their is a slight acknowledgment to the presence of Western institutions, Seoul seems to still be rooted with a sense of itself...Ok, the driving is nuts, people wear masks randomly on the street if they've got a cold, there's so much pollution its very hard to go on a run, and 14 year old boys at Jennifer's school referred to me as 'handsome.'
Their is definitely a Western presence here, not just with the US army, but things such as McDonalds, Dunkin Donuts, and I saw someone on the Subway with a container of Krispy Kreme's. Portions are smaller when it comes to things, and they do cost a little more. I'm guessing it has to do with the novelty, being imported, etc...but it's still different. Although I haven't yet ventured into a Dunkin Donuts, Jennifer has explained that they aren't held with the same regard of "oh yea, Dunkin D" that we hold them at home, but rather they are 'chic' shops to explore.
The driving is crazy, Jennifer explained that you can not only ride bicycles on the sidewalk here, but you can ride motorcycles on the sidewalk here. People ride motorbikes and scooters quite a great deal, which was typified by the man I saw taking his 3 daughters to school on a scooter yesterday. One girl rode in front of him, the other 2 held on from behind making a chain.
They wear masks if they have a cold and don't want to infect anyone, and Jennifer has informed me that the elderly at times wear them as well. Now I guess I can understand it, but being well informed on the futility of masks worn by people during the Spanish Influenza years ago (and being an historian that being my only frame of reference), it strikes me as odd.
In the past few days, Jennifer did have a day off, and we used the time to go to the Korean National War Memorial Museum (not sure of that's the proper word for it, but hey), and it was a rather good time. I know very little about Korean history, was definitely interested in many of the technology advancements, and was quite giddy at the model castle/redout that had been constructed--and we could walk on! Jennifer expressed interest at my giddyness, as well as the myriad of clothing advancements we saw. We spent hours there, and are planning to return Saturday.
Additionally, Jennifer brought me to her school yesterday for lunch, and to view the kids. I headed up the hill, and met her there...and was immediately taken in to see the vice-principal, principal, and then to lunch with the teachers (including her friend Sarah from Ireland). The food was good, I'd just gotten back from a run (the hills will definitely help the amount of chocolate I've been ingesting), but I did try the little bit of octopus...which b/c of my sinuses, I really couldn't taste. Jennifer then proceeded to bring me around the school--and the kids were a bit animated I must say. Some lept out of windows, others screamed...a collective gawking if I've ever seen one. The girls giggled, referred to me as 'handsome,' and the boys followed suit. I've never had 14 year olds refer to me as handsome, but it was all in good fun, and Jennifer and I went to Starbucks later in the evening.
Alright, well those are some of my initial experiences and impressions, I'm sure I'll return soon, but I must say it has been rather delightful to see Jennifer these past few days, and I'm looking forward to the rest of my trip and time with her.

Naked in North Korean Part 2

Next comes the Onjeonggak Village. This village is located in the Kumgang Mountains that straddle South and North Korea. They have allowed a tourist village to be built there. As you drive up to this Tourist Village, you pass a few small villages and cross over civilian road. When you do cross over such a dirt road you can see the soldier posted on either side. You can also see the random soldier standing out in the fields. Mixed in with this scene are the residents of these villages walking along or riding bikes (there are no cars except for military vehicles). Now in this village there is a mixture of South and North Koreans working there – various hotel, shop, and restaurant position. I am really not sure how that all works, but you know who is a NK because the have to wear this red lapel pin with the government leader’s face on it all the time. You of course can talk to those that work there but are told to avoid any topic that would be remotely interesting such as politics, daily NK life, religion and so on – after all of that I am pretty much left mute. You are told that you can definitely not talk to any resident that you may cross paths with. Being that in order to get to the hotel spring or this painting of the leaders at this one hotel ( I will tell you about this later) you have to cross one of the main village roads these encounters are very possible. But being that once again there are soldiers on either side of the road, it is really best not to make eye contact with anyone. And it should by this time go with out saying that you cannot take a picture with a NK. Okay there is one loop hole in this – you can ask a NK who works in the village if they would have their picture taken WITH you, but it must then be taken by another NK.

In this village there are about three hotels and another that is being built. These hotels are very, very nice – a stark contrast to the town beyond the gate with building that look like they took a few rounds of fire 50 years ago. There are also a few restaurants, souvenir shops, and a culture center building where that North Korean acrobatic performance company does their shows – I went to see one of the shows and once again I will get to that later. This place really looks no different than any other hiking resort you might find anywhere else (with the exception of uniformed guys with guns around the fence). So we got there around noon-ish, grabbed some food and headed off to our first hike. We were going to go up about 4 km to this water fall, and we were warned that it would be rather ice so I rented spike for the bottoms of my shoes (I am so glad I did because 2/3 of the way up it was nothing but ice). The hike was cold and very wind but beautiful. Everything is so very clean – the color of the water alone takes your breathe away. Going up was rather annoying because it was very crowded and Koreans take their hiking very seriously here so they so not leave much room for standing and enjoying the surrounding. What was really cool to see was all the places where Korean and Chinese writing has been done in the side of the mountains. I have a few great pictures. It is not obtrusive at all – it even kind of adds to the experience. I met a very nice young girl from Busan as I was walking up. As a SK teenager she was very excited to be on this trip with her parents. Now Busan is quite a big warmer that Seoul and much warmer than where we were – so poor thing was freezing. We walked most of the way up together. I first met her as I was rounding a corner. I stopped to take in the view and she walked up to me and pushed a candy into my hand. It was one of these very yummy peanut flavored candies they have here. She said, “Here traditional Korean candy eat.” Okay. And we started talking from there. She was very excited to learn that I was from the US. She had a friend studying in New York and said she was very jealous and that she wanted to go there someday. I giggled and told here “No don’t go to New York- it smells funny – go to Chicago!”

Coming back down was lovely because by then everyone was rather spread out so there actually moments where you were all alone. So we come back down to the bus, and in order to get to the parking lot you walk passed this restaurant and rest station (I have a picture of it – it is the one white building with the rounded side and blue accents – not to be confused with the another building of the same exact design by the lake). Outside of the building people are making various types of food for people to buy. One of the girls walked up to one of the stand to order these pancake looking things. The woman behind the counter is NK – you know this because of the red pin she is wearing. The girl comments to her how cold it was and the woman replies by tapping her fist to her chest and says “Makes you strong”. I laughed.

We come back to the tourist village and checked into our hotel –let it be stated again very nice hotel. And the rest of the evening was free time. So I decided to go see the acrobatic show. This is definitely where the full force of the weirdness that is NK hit. As nice as everything else is in the tourist village, the inside of this cultural center looked like an old high school auditorium. But okay no big and then the show begun. Now mind you anything that was to be spoken would be in Korean – so these impressions are strictly taken fro the visual and emotional sense. A gentleman came out to welcome everyone (I knew that much Korean) and make a few announcements – one of which was no Photos until curtain call – understandable. Well what I noticed about him first was that he was wearing a rather nice dark grey pinstriped suit; however, he had on the rattiest – I have been farming in these – pair of brown shoes. It was just odd. And way the lights go down and the music starts and the best way I can describe the next hour and a half was that I had been sucked back in time to German or Soviet Union cabaret in 1932. Everything from the clothes, to the make-up on the men, the music, and even the way they moved (particularly the very creepy slow motion twist of the wrist hand wave that the women did) – It made my skin crawl. They show was very good, but it was good in that I am watching a piece of living history good. Definitely no creativity or imagination in the presentation. Now this leads me to the following question: With the preserve the Korean way idea, is the show this way out of tradition or has no one been able to smuggle in a copy of Cirdus Soule? Both are very possible. After the show I made my way up to the Hot Spa. Man that felt good and definitely not for the shy. I will not go into great detail except for – it is very cool to sit out under the stars in NK while relaxing in a mineral hot spa. I could have stayed in there forever. Anyway being that we had driven all night and started our day at 6:00 AM, hiked, and would be getting up at 7 AM to start our next day - that day I was out before 8 o’clock.

Our next day, after breakfast, we had the choice of two different hikes. The first went up another part of the mountain, but the second (which one of my friends had told be about) went over to the East Sea and over to a lake for a short hike. Now I already knew I would go on the second. I had been told by my friend that in order to get to the sea and to the lake the buses had to go right through one of the actual villages. Once again there was the no picture rule while on the bus or in the parking lots. But there I was in arms length and you are not even comfortable enough to wave at the people you see looking at you from behind wall and buildings and from windows. At one point the caravan of bus slowed to an actual stop – I look out my window and see that we stopped less than five feet from a building – and staring at me from the corner of this window is a boy maybe 10 years old. I really wanted to know what that kids was thinking. What has he been told about the foreigners who he sees in these buses on the weekends?

It was also on the second day that I get in trouble – twice. I mean really folk what else did you expect. The first was on the beach. I was moving my way down this very, very rock shoreline, and I see this little concrete shelter with three rectangular hole along the top standing against the rock face. OOHH cool that is for shooting guns out of. Now no where in my mind was I concerned about here being anything in the shelter. I was simply curious and there were a couple people standing right in front of it so I figured no big let’s take a look behind. Well as I was rounding my way back five tour guides yelled out over the beach for me to get away. Okay no big at least I tried but really did not understand why an old concrete shelter was so taboo. Then I also hear them tell other tourists that they cannot take pictures in the direction behind and to the right of the shelter. The rock face was very nice so people were trying. Turns out there is a military base just behind that rock face – AAHHH Jennifer says. I could not go in so I slyly took a picture instead. You think I would have learned my lesson, but alas friend who are you talking to. After the shoreline, we went over to this lake for a hike. Very lovely. The view from up on the hills there is comical. On one side you look back over the forest you have just walked through, and on the other is this barren mixture of winter farmland and rocky mountains that have been stripped bare. Kind of like a bad slight of hand artist. OOHH and AAHH at my magic hand to the right but ignore the coin I just dripped on the floor from my left. Anyway, as you walk along the guide in the bright jackets are pretty good about keeping you from going in a direction you should not. Except for this one little cliff where me and two of the people in my group walked over to. Now it was not like we wandered off into the woods and jumped a fence – we simple were on a cliff that was up a well-traveled and clean path not 20 feet off the main path. It had a great view of the fields below. Also right below us at the time is a little traditional building and you can here saws being used. Well as we are up there taking picture (mostly of the farm) this man in a pair of grey pants and a black puffer jacket comes out from a rock below. He yells at us to back away and motions for the one guy’s camera. He gestures to be shown how to look at the pictures and instructs the guy to delete certain ones. Now as this is going on, I start deleting pics on mine just in case he asks to see it – I was rather bummed because he did not. Yet as he was looking through the guys camera I notice his clothes (of course) the jacket is wearing is open and as he moves around I can see the banned Mandarin collar of his grey jacket underneath as well as the red bars and insignia on the right side – oooohhh lovely he is NK government. Long story short – he had the guy delete pics, never asked for my camera and walked us back to the main path. As Jennifer breathe a big sigh of relief and then relates her clothing observation to the two people she was with. hahahahaha oh what fun.

Anyway we go back to the tourist village, eat, do some shopping – by the way everything to buy is actually made in South Korea – it is from the mountain region there but it is still SK. Yet another oddity of this magical place. We then had a bit of time to walk around the tourist village more. Me and two other ladies decided to walk up to one of the other hotels where there is the bizarre painting of the NK leaders. Now to get a picture of the painting you must be in the shot and it can only be taken by one of the doormen of the hotel. Okay ?!? That makes sense but sure. The really interesting part was the walk up to the hotel. The walk takes about 15 minutes at a very slow pace. And the path you walk up runs along side a road and this space is about equal to four city lanes wide defined by bright green fence that separates you from the NK villagers. It was really nerve racking walking up there because although you know you are allowed to walk up here as long as you follow the green signs, you still are worried you are doing something wrong. At one time we passed a group of soldier listening to opera and working on a building, and we really wanted to stop and take the moment in, but then we realized that they have all stopped and are now staring at us. We started walking again, but not too fast because you do not want to be thought of as suspicious. Crazy way to live. Oh, our way back as we came up to the intersection with the NK road, one of the guards started blowing his whistle and waving his flag. The three of us look at each other – all with the same question in our eyes – What? What did we do? The next minute lasted ten. We could not figure out what was going on and what we were supposed to do. And you did not want to stare at the soldier because you did not know if you could. So realizing that the NK residences were not moving - we just stood there. Then we heard the goose steps (I am not kidding you) of five NK soldiers coming down the NK road. Once a again we looked at each other – Crap what did we do? Well in fact it was not for us – they were doing some kind of inspection of the guards there, but man that was freaky. When we could finally move forward we bolted out of there. We were ready to go.

After this we then make our way back to NK immigration – same annoying music but no Brown Bear – I was sad. We get back to our NK bus and head through the DMZ to SK immigration. You could actually here the collective sigh on the bus as we passed into SK territory and waved at the SK soldier who was smiling and waving back.

It was definitely an experience. If you ever have the chance to go – do it. I am still trying to get my mind wrapped around it all. There is supposed to be another NK village that is opening up in February. Supposedly you will have more access to the actual village. I am going to try and go there as well. I cannot imagine this being my life everyday. But then again if that is all you know. Begging the question again – what has that little boy in the window been told?

The other interesting thing was to see the similarities in the SK and NK way of thought. For many Koreans the idea of asking why you are told or expected to do something is never a thought. You do this said thing because you were told to. And does the person who told you know why it is to be done. No not really – they had been told by someone else. Example: Last month one of the female teacher got married. The thing that struck Sarah ( they other English teacher) was that this guy’s family had A LOT of Money, and this could be a draw for a young woman, but this teacher did not seem to be that kind of person. Then on top of this she is very well educated, has a great sense of humor (something hard to some by with some of the women here), and beautiful – this guy although wealth and educated was quite lacking in other areas. Why was she marrying him? Sarah made this to one of the teachers that we know rather well – and her reply? “Well, it is an arranged marriage.” What?! Are you kidding me? This teacher did not seem to be someone who would go in for something like this – but apparently it had been arranged long ago. And when we asked the other teachers why would this still be done – they shrug their shoulders. Or the hitting of students thing. Children here do not ever seem to learn to discern right and wrong for themselves – they only know what will get them smacked. They are told do or do not do the following things, but are never told why it maybe the right thing to do. How are you ever expected to know how to figure out new or unfamiliar situations if you never have models to base anything off of? North Korean is very similar in the you do this because you have been told and do not worry about the why.

Okay that is all for now. Check out the pictures. At the end of this month I am heading to Hiroshima, Japan with Josh, so I am sure I will have a word or two about that.

Take care all.

Naked in North Korea Part 1

Oh yeah that’s right. This past weekend I took a very guided tour to the Mount Kumgang area near a town called Onjeonggak in North Korea. This is a place just a few miles north passed the DMZ that they have opened to foreigners. Now I must say I went on the trip expecting to see amazing thing and was simple excited about the idea of being in North Korea and getting to go the Hot Spring Spa there (yes that is where the Naked in North Korea comes in – traditional Korean public baths are completely nude – gender separate but nude – I had no problem with this but watching some of the young western girls get so squeamish was a hoot). However, I spent the weekend amazed, speechless, wanting to cry, wanting to scream, and laughing at how ludicrous the whole thing is, and I only got myself reprimanded twice – for me I think this is a pretty good figure.

I apologize now for the lack of pictures. I did get a few; however, what and where you can take pictures is VERY, VERY, VERY controlled. You are not allowed to take any photos while traveling in the bus after you leave South Korea. You can only take pictures in the tourist village and hiking area. In fact as you go along in the bus you look out the window and about every 20 meters you will see a North Korean soldier standing at stone like attention with a red flag in his hand. They are there to watch the buses as they go from place to place. If they see anyone taking pictures or what they think looks like someone taking a picture, they stop the caravan of buses – they will board the bus the one soldier saw – they will then go through everyone’s camera – the offender will get at least a very heavy fines and can be removed from the tour and detained by the military. Sounds fun huh – so please forgive me for the minimal pics. So let me start at the beginning of this whole adventure.

I met with a group called Adventure Korea. It is a company that caters to English speaking foreigners. They do various types of trips every month. Most are outdoor activity based. For example, over December they are doing a skiing trip, an ice fishing trip, and a DMZ trip. Two of my co-workers had gone on the North Korean trip and were both very impressed and awed – so I decided it was my turn. Now to go on the trip I had to turn in copy of my passport and employment info so that they could get clearance and the special papers needed for passing into NK. I met up with the tour group at 11:30 PM on Friday night. We drove until about 5 AM when we reached the last rest stop before the South Korean immigration. We rested there for about an hour waiting for your time to head to immigration. This was a very easy process, and they have a very nice, new and shinny building that kind of looks like a jet engine. From there we changed to the tour bus that would take us in to NK. No, the SK bus we came over with was not allowed passed immigration. This is where life turned very surreal for two days. As we left immigration, we entered the DMZ. The difference from South and North was night and day. First, the simple things like uniform and physical behavior of the military. As you drive passed the SK soldier they are in very western looking camos – scary yet relaxed posture and they waved as the buses passed by ------ Then you cross over to NK. The soldier are in very tailored German/Soviet uniforms, with scowls on their faces, and at a stone like attention. From this point forward you are not allowed to take any pictures except in the designated areas. And how I wish I could as we crossed the DMZ into NK. The thing that struck me most was the hills. now if you have seen any of my other pictures, you have seen that Korea is very mountainous. And what every bit of land that is not city or farm is covered in trees. It is wonderful to look up from this concrete ugliness that is Seoul (it really is not that attractive of a city) and see the tree covered mountains that surround me. However, this drastically changed as we entered NK. The mountains very abruptly changed to barren piles of brown and white rock. Every once in a while there was a tree or a clump of three trees, but I am serious when I say there was nothing – simply rock. It looked more like a desert country than a place that should be covered in forests. I really wish I had pictures to show you. Later that day someone else who had noticed the changed asked one of our SK guides why this was so. He said that according to NK, the land was cleared on purpose to make it easier to watch for SK spies who might try to cross over – yet as you might be already down this road as well – he then commented that this also makes it very hard for any North Korean who might try to escape NK. Holy Crap!! And I am telling you – anyone crossing this area is am easy target.

So we get off the bus at the North Korea Immigration Station. They stop the line of buses and tell you to take all of your belongings with you to be scanned. You must walk from your bus to the immigration building, and for those of us eat the end of this line, it is a little strange to walk down the road of this desolate land looking up at the frozen soldiers scattered around you. And then you hear it – a sound that makes you think you have just stepped into some movie about Wiemar German or a propaganda film from the USSR – Music. Over the PA system they are playing this overly sentimental, ultra- traditional Korean music that sound like it is coming from a victrola AND they are playing it over and over and over and over. Same song ! Over and over and over and over. You really wanted to laugh, but did not know if you should. I laughed on the inside.

Now along with your passport, you are to present a special NK Tourist visa that you have been given earlier by the tour guides. Although South Korea will stamp your passport that you have left the country – North Korea will not stamp your passport as this may cause a problem for some people who later travel to other countries such as oh let’s say the USA. Instead you are given a separate paper that has your picture and other information on it (I took a picture of mine and it in the “Life in Korea” section) – this is what they stamp. Also you are given an ID tag that looks almost like the visa. You must wear this around you neck at all times – you can be fined or possible taken in for questions if you do not. We are warned that the immigration officers like to try and trip people up so make sure you know everything that is on your visa. Those of us that were American (Especially Korean-American) were told to be on guard. But no worries all when well. They stamped my papers, scanned my bags, and I was on my way. Now let me take a moment to describe this “building”. It basically was a long box like building (kind of like what you would see on a construction site) with a large tent on either side. The tent reminder me of the one used at the waiting area for the ferry to the Statue of Liberty. So as I passed through security and entered the other tent, I looked crossed to see this Big Brown Bear waving at me. Oh yea, there was someone in a bear costume waving at all the smiling faces – wishing one and all a happy fun time in the great mother land. Please I am not making this up. And still we were not allowed to take a picture. It was like some redneck trailer park white trash version of a communist Disneyland. Anyway we all then headed onto our bus – which has just been searched by the military.

Next comes the Onjeonggak Village. This village is located in the Kumgang Mountains that straddle South and North Korea. They have allowed a tourist village to be built there.

Why Am I So Giddy?

I have not idea why this has made me so excited. It is not like I have never seen this before - for goodness-sake I grew up in Pittsburgh. But I walked out of dinner this evening to discover - IT IS SNOWING!!!!! I am so happy - big heavy flakes of snow. So funny thing is I have been told it does not snow much here so they really so not know what to do with it. Glad I am staying into tonight. That's okay I will just look out the window and enjoy the snow.

HEHEHEHE this is so fun!!!

Happy Pepero Day

How silly of me to have forgotten.

Hapy Pepero Day!!!

Pepero Day is an observance in South Korea similar to Sweetest Day. It is named after the Korean snack Pepero and held on November 11th, since the date "11/11" resembles five sticks of Pepero. The holiday is observed mostly by young people and couples, who exchange Pepero sticks, other candies, and romantic gifts.

According to one story, Pepero Day was started in 1994 by students at a girls' in middle school in Busan, where they exchanged Pepero sticks as gifts to wish one another to grow "as tall and slender as a Pepero" (Pepero means "thin like a stick"). However, it is more likely it was initiated by Lotte, the company which produces Pepero.

In Japan, a similar Pocky Day was held on November 11 in 1999, which was the 11th year of the Heisei era. The date, 11/11 of the 11th year, resembled 6 sticks of Pocky.

The Attack of the Evil Killer Fans

Okay so ever culture and generation has its little quirks and strange beliefs. It is hard to sometimes turn away from the superstitions and folklore of your parents. Come on they were smart people – they would not have believed in something if it were not true. Now be honest we all have things we do because well that is just the way my folks did it.

Well on Friday, I learned that if I sleep in a closed room (windows and door shut) I will die. Being that I love the sound of a fan to help me sleep – I should have been dead years ago. How did I become so enlightened? I was reading a bit that one of my fellow English teachers had written, and it mentioned something about “fan death”. “Fan death”? And that this thing called “fan death” was something that Koreans believe in very strongly and will even try and back up with science. And actually they are the only nationality known to believe this. So being the curious person that I am, and my fellow teachers of the Korean design being the open individuals that they are and understanding of my curiosity and random questions – poked my head above the desk divider and ask, “What is ‘fan death’?” This time there was a collective OOOOOHHHH – kind of like I had just summonsed ones dead grandmother. And then there was a quiet giggle.

Now Ms. Sho sits across from me and is a rather hip young Korean lady with a rockin’ sense of humor. Many times the jokes or snappy banter between myself and the other native teachers is not gotten. Completely understandable – English is not their native language and so a play on words or cultural puns are lost on them. And you do not want to make them feel stupid by not explaining it (cause they are not by any means) or make them feel excluded – but it really kills a moment when you have to go back and explain why something is funny – they think about it for two minutes and them come back to laugh with you. ANYWAY – so Ms. Sho proceeds to explain this theory of “fan death”. Now mind you as I stated above these are all very bright and reasonable people. But if you try and talk them out of this idea – you will simply end up blue in the face.

So what causes “fan death” you ask? Well below is an excerpt from a website called www.fandeath.com.

How Can Fans Kill? (from www.fandeath.com)

The very concept of an appliance killing without direct contact or electrocution is a hard one to accept. There are many theories to what causes fan death. Here are a few of the main theories. Try to keep an open mind.
Hypothermia
If a fan is blowing in a sealed room then it may cause the body temperature to cool down enough to cause hypothermia. Severe Hypothermia can cause death.

This is an interesting theory and one that sounds good. Until now, I have not been able to find a source or website that suggests fans as being able to cause Hypothermia.

Suffocation
The blowing fan somehow creates a vacuum around your face area, which prevents you from breathing correctly. The result is death.

This is also interesting. I don't think skydivers or people who stick their head out the wind of a moving car ever died.

High Levels of Carbon Dioxide
Another suggests that fans use up oxygen and create fatal levels of carbon dioxide in the room.

Now here is another little gem of the Korean culture (especially the highly competitive and money flowing Seoul). I had heard about “tongue surgery” about a week after I got here. A girl (Korean born and bred) that I go to church with work at a pre-school. I asked her how she liked it and what exactly she did with the kids. She is an assistant. She helps to keep the kids focused and in control during their English lessons (yes English lessons in pre-school). Wow really English that early – I reply. And then she mentions that for many parents it is a big deal that their children grow up as fluent as possible – even to the point of “tongue surgery”. I looked at her with wide eyes, but for some reason did not press for details. Then while looking up things for “fan death”, I found a reference to the “tongue surgery” of which she spoke. Now my question is what about all of the Korean immigrants who have children who grow up in an English speaking country with no Asian accent? The lack of surgery does not seem to have held them back.

Tongue Surgery for Better English (from www.fandeath.net)

The theory is that if you cut the frenulum (that's the tissue linking the tongue to the floor of the mouth), your tongue will be more flexible and be able to pronounce those difficult English sounds. Why? English pronunciation is important in Korea. Koreans have a belief, the better you speak English, the better your life will be. English just offers so many opportunities. Korea is a highly competitive country, some parents believe that this may give their child an advantage. Hey, there's nothing to lose if you try, right?

Shocking right? We would never do that to our children. Right? Yeah cause taking a baby boy and cutting skin off his penis it a fine idea. Oh but not that is different – we do that for the child’s health. He might get an infection if we do not disfigure him. Or what if he feels self-conscience when he sees that he is different from his dad? To quote my brother when he realized that his penis looked different then his dad’s and it was explained to him why, “OH MY MOMMY WOULD NEVER DO THAT TO ME!!!!” Or does dad have some kind of hang up about being different than his son? Go take it up with your mother.

So really can I fault a parent here for allowing a slice under a child’s tongue? But please if it is not life threatening – leave your kids alone. There are enough adults out there who believe the solution for their woes will come at the slice of a knife – there is not reason to give them a head start.

Signing off.

School Field Day

Okay I am now home and dry. I went out to one of the street markets late this afternoon only to discover that while I was underground on the subway it had started to rain. So I ran around – diving from awning to awning – to get the few things one my list. Then I made a run for the subway again. By this time I am pretty wet – but then I reached my stop – and did the rain slow down at all? – oh no – oh contraire monfraire – it was raining harder. Well from the subway it takes a little under 10 minutes to get to my front door – They say some people walk in the rain and others just get wet. I tried very hard to be one of the first, but I must say I still got soaked.

Anyway, there are some new pictures and video up – so please check those out. There are a few pictures of Busan. Like it mentioned in the previous posting, I have forgotten to take my camera out with me the first day. The majority of the new pictures are from this past Friday. The school had its annual Field Day. Now the way the Korean school year works is that the new year starts at the beginning of March. Your are in school from March to June – then you have summer break – you come back in August and have class through the end of December – then have winter break January through mid-February. So right now the school is winding down its year. And at the end of every school year they have a Field Day. It is an all day event with sports competitions between classes in the mornings and then grade three dance performances and teacher events in the afternoon. The kids have been practicing for these events and dance performances ever since I got here.

I had a blast. Make sure to check out the pictures. They are mostly of the 1st graders that I teach. I did also get video of the drum crew’s performance on the morning and one of the 3rd grade’s dances.

Enjoy.

I will be a happy bride - the old man said so.

Hello all! I have just gotten back from my weekly salsa lesson. It is proving to be quite fun. Since the little dancing that is available here is more on the lines how loud club crap – which hey has its time and place – it is nice to dance to something with a bit of soul and a better use of hips. Had a lovely weekend. I will get the few pictures that I took up as soon as possible. I took the train down to Busan.

Busan is located at the southern tip of South Korea. The coolest thing it that the express KTX train will get you there I about 2 hours and 45 minutes. So last Saturday I got up at 4 AM to catch the 6 AM train. Probably not the smartest thing since I was so tired by mid-Saturday.

Now I must admit that knowing what I know now, I wish I had moved to Busan instead of Seoul. It is just beautiful. First of all it is right on the ocean. In fact I spent most of Saturday on the beach or sitting at a Starbucks in soft oversized chair with an Earl Grey tea looking out over the shiny blue water reading Hemingway. Oh yea I was in heaven. I also went to their aquarium on Saturday – it was okay. The coolest thing about it is that it is all underground – all four floors. Oh they do have an awesome shark exhibit. Long glass tunnels with all the big fishies swimming over your head. Unfortunately, I was so tired on Saturday that I left my camera in my hotel room. So I do not have pictures from the first day.

Crashed rather early, but before I did I went searching for food. My plan was to eat near the beach; however, the two place I was interested in were an Indian place that was way too expensive and a Vietmese place that surprisingly had a really boring menu. So I headed back over to my hotel. Earlier I saw a sign for a Chicago Pizza Factory – yea there was no way it was going to be real Chicago, but I figured I needed to give it a try. Now one thing to let you know about pizza here – and these are the reasons I have not really eaten much of it here – some of the toppings for choice here are corn, potatoes, squid, and mayonnaise. Yea – not cool at all, but this place had pictures of their stuff and it looked safe. Oh yea and it did not look anything like Chicago pizza – It was flatter than a cracker, but it was rather good. Anyway while I was placing my order, I feel this ever so slight tug on the bottom of my jacket. I look down to see this button of a not even two year old at my side. So in my bad western accented Korean I say Anyong Hassayo (hello). She then giggles and runs behind on of the booths. Hey I warned you guys there is much giggling here. So I sit down to wait for my pizza at another booth and watch some Korean TV. And out of the corner of my eye I see a little head peak over the top of the booth closest to the kitchen. So I turn and say hello – the head quickly disappears. So I creep as low to the floor as I can to the other end of that booth. And as I am peaking around the booth I see the back of the little being who is peaking her head around the booth to find me. So I whisper shilla hamnida – yogeeyo (excuse me – here). And there is now a squeal and giggle. So for the next 20 minutes or so I play one mean game of peek –a-boo with this little girl. She did finally get enough courage to come over and sit by me. The best ever. Just goes to further prove that children and old people love me – everyone else stays away.

I happened to me again yesterday. Many of my fellow teachers have talked about felling like a walking ESL lesson. People see you and want to practice their English – so they stop you and ask where you are from and what you are doing here, Blah Blah Blah. This also makes it really hard to practice the Korean you are learning. Anyway this does not happen to me. I get all the little kids who come running up or the old people who take a liking to you. I have had many an old lady at church talk about me and giggle (yes they do it too). The funniest thing is they sit there and talk about and to me in Korean – the English speaking Koreans who go to my service will translate for me. It is very funny. The best was after a few minutes this old woman looks right at me points and says “I like you” Oh thank you – Although there is something slightly scary coming from someone who might decide to make you Fish Eye Soup.

Anyway I was on the subway yesterday, I am standing there reading book, and I hear this little voice say “May I talk to you?”. And there beside me is the loveliest old man ever. I tell him yes of course he may speak to me. Well he begins to comment on my reading a book. I tell him I love to read. He says that is very good – it means I must be knowledgeable. Well I was not sure about that but I do love to read. He asked me if I was a student – I said no I am a teacher. I got an OH very good. Asked me how long I had been here – was I adjusting to Korean culture. Then he asked me if I would stay longer than my year contract. I told him that I could not because I was going home to get married. He asked what my fiancé did and I told him he was a College History Teacher. At this the man lit up – “Oh you are very lucky to have someone with such a respectable position. You will be a very happy bride.” At this point I fell on the ground laughing inside. I know what the man was trying to convey and he had such great intentions, but I loved it. I told him that yes I was very proud of my fiancé. At this point I was at my stop. He then wished me luck and happiness. Like I said kids and old people – love it.

Had an interesting event at work this week. One of the 3rd grade students (about 16 years old) hit and then tried to strangle one of the female math teachers in class. The office was turned upside down. This kind of behavior towards a teacher is unheard of; however, let me express a few things that I find backwards. I asked what was going to happen to the kid. Would he be suspended? No, that was not harsh enough – good I agree. Would he be exspelled – No you cannot do that. So the next day both this teacher and the student were back in school. I think the boy was kept in a room off of the main office all day, but really. Would this at least go on his permanent record as he went to high school? Yes, but being that he has already taken his exams and knows what school he is going to – it does not matter.

Now this has brought a few interesting topics among the foreign and native teachers. First, the kids here in Korean are so violent with one another. Now mind who is writing this and the rough-housing family I come from. We have perfected a good family expression of love-beating between siblings into an art form, but these kinds pound on each other. And there is no issue with boys hitting girls. Now also take in account I am not talking western girls here –hit me in school and I could have pounded you – but these girls are little and some of the boys are bigger than me. I went off on a boy who hit a girl up side the head in class today. I asked one of my co-teachers if this event was surprising given the violent among student – she response is that these are children playing. Please I know child’s play – these kids can do some serious damage. But them again what should I expect with the number of kids getting smacked as punishment in the office each day. And I am talking for thinks like wearing finger nail polish, hair being too long, and oh I loved this one. A boy and girl were caught walking arm in arm down the hall. Not Hand in Hand – Arm in Arm. They had to stand in the corner of the office with arms in the air for 20 minutes. Try that sometime - it is not pleasant.

Reading Adventure TV Show

Latest

Okay first off there are some new pics up and I have also put a brief video taken of a peasant dance at the Folk Village outside of Seoul. I was there last week with one of the Korea teachers. Also there are pics of my neighborhood and school as well.

Also the Reading Adventure TV show that I told you about was on today. Oh my - well it was interesting. I am hoping to get an online link so that you can see it. It is truly a piece of work.

So I have seen here now for a month and a half. I have heard the stages of living abroad talked about before: first the honeymoon - the oohh aahh everything is so new, second the Oh I am not going home anytime soon , then the possible slip into what am I doing here which can turn into "I wanna go home" but if properly treated can become the "okay find your niche and routine".


That was were I was last week. I had seen most of the major sites in the city - had a whole lot of Korean food and was kind of wondering what was I doing here. Never was I regretting the move not at all, but I was wondering what I wanted to get out of all of this. Yes I was here and teaching and interacting, but that was now the habit of work and I needed something that was for my - oh hell I needed a project - something new to start planning - I was at risk of a possible bored spell - and we know how those can turn out for me.

So my plan was to try and get one scheduled activity for each night of the week so I would welcome staying at home. So here is how things are currently set up:
Mondays Korean Language Lesson (yes me and Sarah, the teacher from Ireland, have a tutor who comes to the school to teach us Korean) and I am going to be teaching a private English lesson on Mondays and Wednesdays starting next month
Tuesday yoga (the class in taught in Korean and I am the only non-Korean in the room - it is a hoot)
Wednesday salsa (there is a dance studio in Itaewon that is taught in English by a guy from somewhere in North America)
Thursday yoga again
Fridays don't have anything yet
Saturdays well I teach every other Saturday morning (extra cash) and those weekends I don't I try to go out of town or hang out at Hahwa. It is this very cool artist and university area. I hang out in the park, drink tea (Starbucks Earl Grey - I know so wrong but Korean green tea tastes like dirt), read or crochet. Knitting and crocheting are not popular here at all - so it is very funny to watch the people who stop to watch me. There are also a couple performance groups that are fun to watch around there as well.
Sundays church and catch up day

This weekend the plan it to take the train down to Busan. I have been told there is a great Russian community and market down there. I am so looking forward to that. Another mission of mine is to find a Russian tutor here. I live right next to Korea University - I am hoping there is a college student looking for some extra cash. I have also recently started looking into two week language intensive programs in Moscow. I thought that might be a good stop over trip on my way home next year.

So let me tell you what I learned about Korean methods of dealing with confrontation and management styles. One of the Native English teachers is leaving at the end of the month. She has been at the school for a year and in Korean for two and she will be going back to Canada. She has a great apartment in Itaewon that is rather cheap and in a great quiet location. Now it is in the contracts here that the school will provide you housing and if you choose not to accept that housing, you can find your own place and they will give you an allowance of 450,000 won (about 450 dollars) and month. Well, to be honest the house I have was a bit of a surprise. It is in a very new, nice building and has free Internet and cable; however, it is small - even small for Korean standards. There are college student who have bigger spaces then I do. So the teacher and I were talking and thought it would be great if I could get the school to let me move into her place. Well as it turns out the school paid for the whole year at my place plus a huge deposit so there was no way I was moving. Consequently, this (the request and me sort of following in the step of this teacher) seemed to have pushed a button with some of the administration. Friday, morning my head teacher pulled me aside. She first explain why I would not be able to move (no big I can deal) - then she proceeds to tell me this list of things that the school does not like about this teacher. From her dress, her teaching style, her professionalism, her inflexibility, and on and on. And I am sitting there - I actually told the teacher at one time - "you know you do not need to be telling me all of this" - and then she says that in a way this teacher is not simply leaving but is being fired, but she does not know that. What she is being fired but does not know it? Seems that if she actually would have wanted to stay longer they would not have renewed her contract. The my head teacher tells me not to tell her because she wants her to have good memories of the school plus they are worried how she would react if she was told. Then she let me know that I have done nothing wrong but she wanted me to know how the school felt about this situation.

Now the teacher she is talking about is very sweet but is rather irresponsible. And I am glad that the head teacher told me how she is viewed because as new teachers at this school myself and the third Native English teacher - have been taking this woman's cues on how to go about doing things and what was and was not allowed. And I can see why I was told all of this (and I made sure to tell the third teacher) but man if these things are a problem why not just talk to her. Especially since they seem to have been a problem for a while. But not embarrassing someone is such a thing here. Instead of simple confronting them - you will allow a situation to continue and then tell someone else about it. ARG!! Now here I sit in the office with this teacher knowing what is thought of her by people in the administration and knowing she has never been given a chance to change. Most of what they do not like she does because she simply think she can get away with it because they do not care.

But all in all things are very good. I am looking forward to Josh coming to visit in two months and two days. Not that I am excited or anything. I have another cool trip planned for late in November that I will tell you about later. And all is good.

Take care all. And Hey send me postcards my kids get a kick out of them!!!

Pimped out in the name of English

Okay so I cannot believe I have been forgetting to write to you guys about this. A week ago yesterday (Thursday), a kids TV program called Reading Adventure came to our school. Our school is known in the city for having a pretty good English program as well as a decent amount of resources and dedicated teachers. Well, the other two native teachers and I had been told about a week before this all went down that the show would be taping here and that they would come in to one of each of our classes during the day to shoot a bit of us teaching and the students. And I was also asked if I would go down and work with the drama kids again so they could shoot that as well (I had helped them get ready for a drama competition the week earlier.) No big deal maybe 20 minutes or so. BIG OLD LIE!!!! So let me take you back to last Thursday. So I come into the office that morning and the lead Korean teacher Mrs. Kim (I call her MK since there are so many Mrs. or Ms. Kims around here) asks me to look over the script for the shoot. Script? Okay. See Kristy, the native teacher who has bee here for a year, and a student, who had been chosen because she had lived in the US for a time, would be acting as hosts/guides at the school. Yeah for me and Sarah we were going to get out of it all – Wrong. So yea Script. Can I just say Cratz Creatures except Asian style and about English. The show had emailed MK a script and asked her to translate it into English. Mind you not much in Korean translates well into English. Completely different tone and sentence structure. Oh yea Script again. So MK asks me to look over this script and make any corrections or changes to the structure or word changes to make it sound like natural English. No problem. All is going well – they introduce the school – say what a great English program we have – and suggest that “hey let’s show you around” “well, what should we show them first” “ Oh I don’t know what about the Beauty Trio” - Now this is were I say “beauty trio??” What’s a “beauty trio?” Is it a set of trees somewhere or a classroom I do not know about. Oh yea – I hope you are all much faster on this one than I was – because right about there in the script I get to the line – “Oh look there THEY are now! There’s two of the Beauty Trio” What?!?! Are you kidding me? They are referring to three grown woman – well educated – as the Beauty Trio. Oh yes = yes they did. I about peed my pants. I did not stop laughing for 20 minutes. Now mind you I live in a country advertised by cartoons and where there is a mirror around every corner. I am not joking there is a mirror in every classroom, at every female teacher’s desk, and even big full length mirror in the walkways of the subway stations and not they are not simply for decoration.

So what we thought would be a quick stop in our classes while we are teaching – you know doing our jobs – became a circus event in which we did not teach at all that afternoon so that we could be taped talking with kids in the hall and working with administrative – hand pick kids with very high English abilities – and then there was the over an hour of the drama club (20 minutes my butt). However, my favorite of the day was when MK (she was acting as translator between us and the crew) said “They would like to see you do some special trick.” What?! Like what? “If there is some funny talent that you have. Or make a face.” WHAT – make a face and I say “What does this have to do with teaching?” So after a good 5 minutes of the Beauty Trio saying you must be crazy – MK say something about a song or special thing like that. Song huh? You want us to sing. Fine. I will do it. A song? Oh I cannot believe this. Well I am on the other side of the world and I doubt anyone will see this. So I sang. Really loud. I was actually rather nervous because was not prepared to do that – but the other teachers and student cheered afterwards and the crew says “oh can we shoot that again” WHAT!!!! ARG!!!

So long story short – on October 15th here on some channel – there will be a Korean kids program that may have me singing on it. But the moral to this story is (and I had seen signs of this weeks ago) that as English teachers here - it is very little about how well you teach and more about you making the school look good. Most public schools only have one native teacher – at the moment our school has three – this is a status thing. And all three fit the look that is sought after when it comes to an Asian idea of western standard. Oh joy. In other words, we got pimped out in the name of English.

Day of loveliness

September 27, 2007

So I have been off from work since Friday. Korea is currently at the end of Chusak. This holiday in terms of family gathering, food, and traffic would probably be similar to Thanksgiving. I am going back to work tomorrow morning and then have Saturday and Sunday off of course – then have this Wednesday off for another holiday - then on Thursday and Friday then students have midterms so we native teachers will not have class. So I really will not have done any work for two weeks. Oh yes poor me. I did take this past weekend to get away a bit. Myself and seven other English teachers went to a part of Incheon Island. We are not real sure where we were but we had a good time.

We had some great seafood. It should taste good when you have personally picked it out of a tank and it has only been dead for less than 30 minutes when it hits your table. I must also admit that I had some of the best shrimp ever – even if I had to take the heads off myself before eating it. Let me tell you friends this was not cool. The problem is in the eyes – their big black eyes just staring at you.
However, today is the day I was really geeked about – and oh I was being such a geek. First I went over to Dongdaemun Multiplex Shopping Mall. This is not quite the mall you might think of – it is rows and rows of little vendors - however instead of clothes this place is five floors of thread, buttons, findings, yarn, fabric, everything. I just about wet my pants when I walked in. I really did consider laying down in a pile of thread and rolling around in it. Now unfortunately Grandma the fabric in this place is mainly for commercial fashion use – so it would not be good for a quilt with an Asian flare – but I promise I am still looking. From there I went to Namdaemun Market, which was very cool but not nearly as cool as the five floors and row after row of fabric related goodness. However, the cream on my geek day came at the Gyeongbokgung Palace. I am sorry to say that it was rather cloudy and wet so there are not many pics of the buildings (I will go back again) but the real sticky center was inside the Korean Folk Museum.

CLOTHES!!!!! Tons of traditional Korean CLOTHES!!!!!!!! And HEADDRESSES!!!

Please refer to new pics to see all the CLOTHES. They are so amazing. No not the pics – The CLOTHES!!!!!!

The colors are fabulous and no that would not have been all their own hair. They used extensions and false hair pieces just as we did in certain periods of fashion. And yes they would have been very heavy.

Weekend Trip to the Country

So I had a great little trip last weekend. I went on a bus tour to a part of Korea called Gyeongsangbukdo. It is about four hours southeast of Seoul not real far from Busan. I have posted some pictures of the trip. Well, some may be an understatement – I think I added about 95 pics from this trip. It was great getting out of the city and seeing the countryside. I must say Seoul is not very attractive as far as large cities go – especially after living in Chicago. It is also rather modern – so it was great to see more traditional towns and housing. Please refer to the most recent pics on the “Life in Korea” link.

The trip satisfied both my costuming interests and my history interests. The first stop on the tour was a Korean mask museum. (refer to pics on link) What I loved about this place was that not only did they have Korean masks, but they also had masks from China, Thailand, India, Africa, and Italy. You can definitely see a difference in the wealth and craftsmanship between these countries.

After this we went to the Andong village of Hahoe. This village is one of the oldest in continuous residence – 600 hundred years old. Oh my, the homes are amazing and the river and mountains surrounding the village are beautiful. After wandering around town, we saw a Korean masked play. Oh can I even tell you how geeked I was – once again please refer to pics. Every character had a certain rhythm to their walk that was in a ten count and symbolized their position and occupation is the village and story. What was even cooler was to see not only a man playing a woman’s part (as it was traditionally done) but to see a woman playing a man’s part. Something that would never had been seen traditionally. I had no idea it was a woman until she took her mask off. Wonderful!!!

After this we visited one of the only three paper factories in Korean. Now when I say factories – I am talking hand-made. The process is amazing and grueling work. While we were there, we made our own small piece of paper and made a traditional Korean paper mask. Mine is now hanging on my wall.

The following day we visited two Buddist Temples. Man the craftsmanship involved in these places is breathtaking. The talents we are given from God are fantastic. I wish these were meant for his glory. The colors and gold work are stunning.

After this we went to the Gyeongju World Culture Expo. Now because of the rain we had been having all weekend, there was not as much to do as one might have wished. But there is this immense 82 Meter tower at the front of the grounds that will knock you off your feet. And if you are a video game person, this is definitely a place you could have some fun. They were premiering all sorts of new technology and animation.

All in all it was a very relaxing weekend. This weekend I think I am off to one of the island off the coast around here. Next week is Chusak here. Which means all the Koreans will be headed back to their hometowns – and the foreigners have to find somewhere to play since the majority of shops, restaurant, venues, and general fun will be closed Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday. I may even do some hiking in the general area if the weather holds up.

Check out the pics and ‘til next time.

Hips, Thighs, Hair, and Eyes

Now I have to warn you all. You all will have a huge job ahead of you when I return. Let me give you an idea of what my day is like.

- I walk up the hill to the school passed all the students and I can hear, “Gasp, Giggle, Giggle Oh Hieeah Teechah.” – I answer with a good morning – and in return I get “Giggle, giggle Bieeeh”
- I walk down the hall to the stairs to the office and I hear, “Oh Hieeah Teechah – Uah so beautafal.”
- I walk up the stairs and I hear “Hieeah Jeneeper” or “Jeneeper – uah beautafal”
- My favorite is the girl who – from what I was told by one of the Korean teacher – checked the meaning and the pronunciation of “Yah gorgeous. I lohv uah”. This she says as she put her hand together, backs touching, with her finger pointing down on her head (yes making a heart).

I really do not know if I will ever adjust when I return. This does not simply happen in the morning. This happens as I walk to classes. This happens in class. This happens as I am sitting at my desk and girls put their heads in the doorway and shout it as they pass. I even got hugged in the bathroom today. Mind you these are not 6 or 7 year olds. These girls are 13, 14, and 15 years old.

On my first or second day, I was walking around the room listening to small groups practice a dialogue. And as I was working at one desk, the girl in front of the desk turns around and stares at me. She is about seven inches from my face. I turn and say hello. She says, “iees” – I say “yes my eyes” – she says “green – uah iees green” – I say “Oh yes my eyes are green” at this she turns around and giggles. There is much giggling – sounds bad but it is like living in an anime.

Another time four girls are looking at my hair as I am coming around to the desks. One girl gets real close (yea there is no personal space here) so I tell her she can touch my hair. Well my hair being my hair, a strand almost a foot long gets caught on her hand. Oh my- you would have thought is was Christmas – she of course giggles – shows it to another girl – they giggle – and she then holds on to it for the rest of class. For all I know my strand of hair is now on a shrine in her bedroom somewhere.

My favorite so far was last Friday, the girl who SCREAMS out as I walk into the room to start class, “Oh Teechah Uah Seksy”. Yea that was just lovely – please I was wearing jeans and a button up shirt.

The stories are all very funny, but the story behind it all does bug me. These girls are so beautiful. Their hair is so thick and such a lovely color. Some of them have the most amazing eyes. But they have had western beauty shoved at them from day one. I know ideas of beauty are a problem back home – but here are girl that will never look western and have found no appreciation for themselves. I was telling the eye story to our head Korean teacher. She explained that one of the reasons the girl was probably so much in awe was that the dolls that Korean girls have when they are young are not Korean doll but western dolls with green and blue eyes with light hair. Many of the dolls are the ones in which the eyes open and close. So it may have been the first time this girl has ever seem real green moving eyes. Which may have explained the freaked out face another girl made when I looked up and found her staring at me - so I crossed my eyes at her. Her eyes got so big, and she covered her mouth. heheheheh Every time one of them complements one of my features – I tell them how much I like theirs.

I am very grateful that I have had the privilege to have lived and worked with so many people of different ethnic backgrounds. What is strange for me is not that I am around people who are Korean (or just look Asian) but that there is really no one else. It is a little different in a section of town called Itaewon where the military base is, but other than that - it is black hair and dark eyes as far as you can see. Where is the color? Where is the artist’s pallet? I bet it would get rather boring looking at mirror all day.

That is all for now. I think I will go play with a box of crayons.

First Impressions

I am rather annoyed that my first blog went all goofy on me. I had some great stuff in there. I hope I can remember it all.

Well, let’s get the funny stuff out first.

Things that I have seen sold on the streets:
All around the city there are open markets and little grocery stores. The items for sale flow out on the street in crates, buckets, and carts. I do wish I could take pictures of some of the more shocking (well at least funny) things I have seen sold for human consumption, but I do not want to be that idiot foreigner who take pictures of the strange things she sees in another land to send home. Instead I will simply be that idiot foreigner who writes about them.

1) Hairy pig snout and lips (oh yea – nice and fresh – looked like I could have used it as a puppet)
2) These little four inch eel things swimming around in a bucket in the grocery
3) Canned dried pupa (oh you heard me right – a can of little baby bugs right on the shelf by the canned tuna in the convenience store
4) Over twelve inch long squid and octopus as big as my head – mind you - I have seen these both dead in tray and alive swimming around in tanks – and not in a larger grocery, but in the small street places in my neighborhood
5) Tofu – now I know this does not sound all that bad and in fact a good thing about the tofu in the big grocery is that it is only 90 cents a package – however the tofu I am talking about is the tofu sold on the street in a plastic tray with no ice, no covering, right next to the fish with heads, and flies around
6) I had thought all the big fish with heads were unnerving until I saw the live fish in a bucket flopping around and wiggling their fins

Although it smells funny, it all makes me giggle. I am here, actually seeing it – pig snout and all – I am here and that makes me giggle. Then there are the things that do not make me giggle. The most culture shocking of these were events of last week. Although banned, corporal punishment is still practiced by some of the older teachers. I have seen students smacked on the shins and palms, have to do squats in the corner in front of the class, and smacked in the back during a class for talking. I keep telling myself – I am in their country.

Bathrooms:
Now if you refer to the Life in Korea photo link, you will see a picture of my bathroom. What you will not see in that picture is a shower. Well, at least a shower as we know it. Look at the sink. You see that silver hose with the spray nozzle at the end? Yep that is the shower. You simply close the door – turn the water on and turn the faucet over to shower. There is a drain in the floor and all is good. It makes it very easy to clean the bathroom. The other feature to take note of is the little box on the side of the toilet seat. This box controls the Japanese cheek cleaner - in case you do not go in for the manual wipe. Call me old fashioned, but I will stick with TP. And last, but not least on the bathroom list is the restrooms at the school. Oh ladies and gentleman – let us take a moment for to recognize the squatter. Oh yea – there is not a western toilet to be found in the building – we got squatters!

And with that I will leave you for now. Tune in next time – when the little Asian teenage girl screams, “Oh Teechah Uha Seksy!!”

Welcome

Ladies and Gentlemen -

I am sorry for the address change, but welcome to my new site. Please look around - enjoy the pictures that are linked under Life in Korea. I will repost everything I had written so far on the other site as soon as possible.

Thank you for you patience,
Jennifer