November 19, 2008
I am very much in awe of this city. I am so happy that I ended up coming through here. And I am not sure when, but I will come back again. There is so much to see and all so very intense. I spent the majority or my day between the Warsaw History Museum and then the Museum of Pawiak Prison. Although built during Tsarist control over Poland in the 18s, it was a Gestapo prison for unruly locals you decided they did not like the Nazis and did things like – OH – fight back – blow up train lines – assassinate German offices – sneak food in to the ghetto – sneak Jews out of the ghetto – write against the Nazis – hold secret school to actually teach Polish history and culture (you know in Poland – crazy idea) – or any general thing someone might find annoying to a fascist regime.
At the history museum they had a great film made up of footage from just before the invasion and then during and after. And one part that really struck me were the color slides taken by a girl that had been an art student at the time. They are the only color records known of – she joined the underground resistance and was given the task of collecting cultural works through the city before they could be stolen or destroyed by the Nazis. But to see the sites in color – the sun shining in to the blown out windows of a church – the buildings completely destroyed and laying in the streets – to see them as people would have seen them – not in the grainy, archaic black and white but everyday color. That was amazing.
Another thing that struck me in all the footage (and let’s puff up a little Polish pride here), were all other women. There was so much film footage and photographs of women hauling bricks, shoveling debris, fighting with the underground, and being part of sabotage groups. It also made me wish my grandfather was still around to ask questions. His family had already been in the US for almost 50 years by the time of the invasion, but I would love to have known what was his family’s reaction to the news. Did they have any family still in Poland at the time? If so where were they? But even my mother will say that when she trying to ask him about Poland – he would just smile and never answer the questions.
Something else interesting was a list of methods used by the Nazis on the people of Warsaw for control. Among the death and destruction was the one that simply said: “Preventative actions”. WOW – preventative actions? So what all does or does not fall under preventative? Because you might have a car accident, I will make a law that says I will fine you or tamper with you driving privilege should you not do this. Because you might hurt someone if you take any kind of non-government approved drug, I will keep you safe and outlaw these drugs and go after people who make or sell them (sshh but we will not talk about the huge amount of violence and crime I have actually created by doing this thing on the chance that you might hurt yourself or others). Because there might be harm being done to children – oh yes that is right it is for the children – even though we have no proof, we will attack a with military force. Because that person leading that country who we used to back but is not longer our friend, nationalized an industry and stole private property companies in our country owned and is saying asinine things, we will invade. Oh what sorry that’s called pre-emptive not preventative. Wait? What’s the difference?
Boy I just made some friends – didn’t I?
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Moscow to Warsaw
November 13, 2008
Well, it is the afternoon of the 13th. I left Korea a week ago today, and I have a day left ‘til we reach Moscow. Sorry I do not have much to report. Tow things have struck me. The people on the trains in China were far more social. People here are really not coming out of their berths much. I was never for want of someone to talk to on that trip. But on the up side it smells a lot less. You would think that after five days on the train people would be rather ripe, but so far there have been only two men who in the last day have walked passed me in the hall and I have had to hold my breath. I do think people are getting annoyed because I hog the restroom for a good 20 -30 minutes every afternoon. The facilities are much cleaner and everyone dace with me – NO SQUATTERS!!!!!I do believe those days are long behind me.
November 16, 2008
I think I am having Western Re-entry Shock. I got too used to people being way to pleasant in Asia. Through any awkwardness or language barrier, people were always willing to help. Now I am being faced with Western Large Urban Area socialization. Utter indifference – Where my time is always more important than your need for directions even if my job is at the “help desk” of the Metro Station or hostel. Do not get me wrong – I am greatly enjoying being here – I have just wanted to smack a few people on the forehead. Although I am noticing that younger women are the most helpful of anyone I have met.
November 17, 2008
There is just way too much to see here and too much of it is closed on Sundays and Mondays. I need to come back here. Let the planning begin Josh. Come on we will do a WWII tour if Europe. It will be fun!!!
Now here is my gripe about tourist traveling and was a big factor in me going to live somewhere. You get to a place. It takes you (well me at least) a good day to work out the transit system, where everything you want to see is, blah, blah, blah. And then you only have two days to go and do it all. You see things but do not get a good feel for things. I hate that. I want at least two weeks. This two/three day thing is frustrating.
So tomorrow around noon I will be in Warsaw (for two and a half days – hahaha). I am really just getting geared up for this weekend and getting to see Sarah. I am so excited.
Oh my goodness. I am loving my conductress on this train. I am on the train on the way to Warsaw, and this woman is fabulous. Now there may be many factors playing in on this. 1) I have a better handle on how things work, 2) I am listening for key works and not looking like a wall hit me when someone starts talking to me, 3) this is a frequent route into other European countries and there for common to have non-Russians, and 4) this woman is not a drunken, bi-polar psycho who yells at me one minute and is all happy and laughing the next. This conductress has been patient with my broken (bad) Russian. She is using short simple sentences (and gestures) and is smiling. Oh I like this woman. And people in the other berths are passing by and saying hello (well not hello literally). I like this train! This is a happy train! I like the happy train! Now the only thing I am anxious about – “the getting through Russian and Belarusian immigration and customs”. I have my visas, my migration card, the card was registered and stamped in Vladivostok – I am pretty sure all is good – but I will not be absolutely sure until they stamp me and let me get out of here. This is the one reason I can’t wait to get into Western Europe – No Visas required.
Other things I am thankful for. The social rule that when you are getting onto a subway car – you stand to the side of the door and wait for the people getting off the train to – well – get off the train. As opposed to charging right into the center of the doorway regardless of anyone who might be trying to exit. (Not like anyone in Seoul might do that.) Also I have cleared the area where a freakish magnetic human force Demands that no matter which side you walk on, or how far or fast you move to get out of the way – Someone! Everyone! Will smack right into you. And it is not a ‘oops’ brush of the arm – it is a full on shoulder check. Here is a tip Korea. When walking through crowded space and you are walking towards someone – twist the shoulders. Lessens the chance of collision and contusions.
Ah – someone just gave me three apples – this is also the same person who just offered me vodka. I turned him down so now he has given me apples. Oh good times.
Well, it is the afternoon of the 13th. I left Korea a week ago today, and I have a day left ‘til we reach Moscow. Sorry I do not have much to report. Tow things have struck me. The people on the trains in China were far more social. People here are really not coming out of their berths much. I was never for want of someone to talk to on that trip. But on the up side it smells a lot less. You would think that after five days on the train people would be rather ripe, but so far there have been only two men who in the last day have walked passed me in the hall and I have had to hold my breath. I do think people are getting annoyed because I hog the restroom for a good 20 -30 minutes every afternoon. The facilities are much cleaner and everyone dace with me – NO SQUATTERS!!!!!I do believe those days are long behind me.
November 16, 2008
I think I am having Western Re-entry Shock. I got too used to people being way to pleasant in Asia. Through any awkwardness or language barrier, people were always willing to help. Now I am being faced with Western Large Urban Area socialization. Utter indifference – Where my time is always more important than your need for directions even if my job is at the “help desk” of the Metro Station or hostel. Do not get me wrong – I am greatly enjoying being here – I have just wanted to smack a few people on the forehead. Although I am noticing that younger women are the most helpful of anyone I have met.
November 17, 2008
There is just way too much to see here and too much of it is closed on Sundays and Mondays. I need to come back here. Let the planning begin Josh. Come on we will do a WWII tour if Europe. It will be fun!!!
Now here is my gripe about tourist traveling and was a big factor in me going to live somewhere. You get to a place. It takes you (well me at least) a good day to work out the transit system, where everything you want to see is, blah, blah, blah. And then you only have two days to go and do it all. You see things but do not get a good feel for things. I hate that. I want at least two weeks. This two/three day thing is frustrating.
So tomorrow around noon I will be in Warsaw (for two and a half days – hahaha). I am really just getting geared up for this weekend and getting to see Sarah. I am so excited.
Oh my goodness. I am loving my conductress on this train. I am on the train on the way to Warsaw, and this woman is fabulous. Now there may be many factors playing in on this. 1) I have a better handle on how things work, 2) I am listening for key works and not looking like a wall hit me when someone starts talking to me, 3) this is a frequent route into other European countries and there for common to have non-Russians, and 4) this woman is not a drunken, bi-polar psycho who yells at me one minute and is all happy and laughing the next. This conductress has been patient with my broken (bad) Russian. She is using short simple sentences (and gestures) and is smiling. Oh I like this woman. And people in the other berths are passing by and saying hello (well not hello literally). I like this train! This is a happy train! I like the happy train! Now the only thing I am anxious about – “the getting through Russian and Belarusian immigration and customs”. I have my visas, my migration card, the card was registered and stamped in Vladivostok – I am pretty sure all is good – but I will not be absolutely sure until they stamp me and let me get out of here. This is the one reason I can’t wait to get into Western Europe – No Visas required.
Other things I am thankful for. The social rule that when you are getting onto a subway car – you stand to the side of the door and wait for the people getting off the train to – well – get off the train. As opposed to charging right into the center of the doorway regardless of anyone who might be trying to exit. (Not like anyone in Seoul might do that.) Also I have cleared the area where a freakish magnetic human force Demands that no matter which side you walk on, or how far or fast you move to get out of the way – Someone! Everyone! Will smack right into you. And it is not a ‘oops’ brush of the arm – it is a full on shoulder check. Here is a tip Korea. When walking through crowded space and you are walking towards someone – twist the shoulders. Lessens the chance of collision and contusions.
Ah – someone just gave me three apples – this is also the same person who just offered me vodka. I turned him down so now he has given me apples. Oh good times.
Saturday, November 15, 2008
New Picture
OKay there are some pictures of Vladivostok, the Trans-Siberian, and Moscow. Check out the Life in Korea section on the left side os the page.
Friday, November 14, 2008
Damned that's a long train ride!
November 8, 2008
I’m off – I’m off - the train is rolling and I am on the Trans-Siberian headed to Moscow. I would giggle and dance, but the two guys in my berth might think I am insane. I already managed to spill water all over myself. They already know I am a cluts – they do not need proof of my insanity.
Now I may not be saying this after six day, but this is probably the most comfortable sleeper I have ever been in on a train. It is actually soft. Although I did get yelled at by the very big Russian lady checking tickets at my train car. I miss understood her and thought she was telling me I had gone to the wrong car. In fact she was just giving me stern instructions as to what number bed I was. Well I started walking away, and she gave this very discussed HET (Nyet) and bids he follow her. She takes me to my bunk. Sternly lectures me some more and leaves. This was a large woman in a long official grey overcoat and scary hat with short blond hair. I was scared. Yet somehow feel comforted that if we happen to be attacked by wolves of bandits – she will be able to fend them off.
November 9, 2008
Okay into the evening of the first day. I am trying to pace myself. Do not write too much. Do not read too much. Do not take out the IPod. Do not turn on the computer except to show pictures. Do get off at each rest stop. Take a chance for fresh, cool air. One thing they know on this train – heating! I thought I was going to melt last night.
So yesterday evening I befriended an older British couple in their way back to London. (They have been traveling around the for seven months – See – See – take notes Josh.) They were staying at the same hotel. While I was down in the lobby picking up WiFi, I realized they had their bags with them. I had heard them talking so I knew they spoke English. So as I was getting a water, I asked if they were waiting for a train. In fact they were – the same one I was waiting for. We chatted – and when it came time we all walked down to the station together. They are in the car next to mine and theirs in a two person berth. Very nice. I am in the four person berth. I figured it gave me a chance to meet more people. In my berth, it is me and three men in their 40s or 50s. Very nice guys. Two are friends and the other just got on the train this morning. Of the friends both are very nice, but the one does not talk or socialize much. The other has been helping me figure out Russian words so I can make real sentences. The other who just got on this morning has done the same. I am so glad I brought my computer. I was thinking about not doing so before I left, but it has been so useful in relaying the story of this lone American chick and what in the world she is doing. I even took some words I knew in English, Russian and Korean – like the words for teacher and wrote them out for them. “See, see I am slaughtering your language, but I know this other really funny looking one!!” Somehow it makes me feel vindicated.
While we were eating lunch, one of the men flipped over his knife and fork. He was making chopsticks and asking me something with a big smile. So I dug in my backpack and brought out my utensils bag – in which I had a fork, spoon, and metal Korean chopsticks. They were very impressed when I started eating the rice with them.
But they have all been very nice. Actually I have not gotten up to get my own hot water for tea or through away trash yet. Every time I did the one would shake his head and take it from me. Now I am thinking that the hot water part might be a matter of self-preservation. There is this rather intimidating contraption at the end of the car for hot water. He is probably thinking “I don’t want this clumsy fool to blow us all up!”
Day one has gone rather smoothly – five more to go. For now sit back watch the sun set and wait for dinner.
November 10, 2008
And thus bring a close to day two. Four more to go. Well kind of like 3 and 2/3. We should be pulling into Moscow around 6PM on the14th. I have passed away the time quite nicely not really doing much of anything. Even got up the energy to bundle myself up and talk a walk around the platform at the last long stop. It was dark and everything was dusted in white and it was snowing. And it was not an uneasy thought or make me uncomfortable in anyway, but I did mutter to myself “My goodness I am a long way from home.” I have never said that before. It took a snowy, dark, middle of nowhere stop in Russia to bring it out. If you would like to pull out an atlas, and I am not even sure you will find this town on there. Look to the right of the country going towards the Mongolian boarder. In English I think it would be spelled Chyernishyeusk Zab. I look at my berth-mate’s map and am floored at how little ground we have covered in 48 hours. Not like I do not come from a big country. The U.S. is not shabby on the square footage, but this is jaw dropping.
I mentioned earlier the kindness of my berth-mates. Well a few amusing stories with that. Last night I fell asleep with my day clothes on and on top of my bedding – these berths get so hot once the door is closed and everyone is sleeping. Well the gentleman on the other lower bunk reached his final stop late last night. Well as he was rolling up his bedding, he took his blanket and but it on me. Well it was either him or the very attentive gentleman above me (GAM). I was aware enough to know the blanket was put on me, but not enough to know who did it. Then the GAM right before we went into a tunnel reached over and put my reading lamp on for me. Now at that time I was laying on my stomach writing or reading. As we entered the tunnel, I realized I still had light. I looked up and thought perhaps I had left it on from before. I only realized he had done it when after we were out of the tunnel, he reached over and turned it off for me. Oh my!
Now I am noticing a trend that everything gets very quiet between 4 and 6. All the berth doors close and folks take a nap or settle on their bunks. I did so for about 30 minutes but around 4:30 got puckish. So I decided to go check out the dining car and on the way say hello to the British couple. When I left GAM was napping. I was gone for perhaps an hour or 2. When I returned people were awake and roaming around. Well, GAM sat down across from me with a bright smile and asked “Jennifer okay?” “Yes I’m okay.(smiling) I went to the restaurant and talked with …” he filled in “ah friends” “Yes English friends.” I found it very amusing that he was concerned when I was gone for a long while. Very funny.
I’m off – I’m off - the train is rolling and I am on the Trans-Siberian headed to Moscow. I would giggle and dance, but the two guys in my berth might think I am insane. I already managed to spill water all over myself. They already know I am a cluts – they do not need proof of my insanity.
Now I may not be saying this after six day, but this is probably the most comfortable sleeper I have ever been in on a train. It is actually soft. Although I did get yelled at by the very big Russian lady checking tickets at my train car. I miss understood her and thought she was telling me I had gone to the wrong car. In fact she was just giving me stern instructions as to what number bed I was. Well I started walking away, and she gave this very discussed HET (Nyet) and bids he follow her. She takes me to my bunk. Sternly lectures me some more and leaves. This was a large woman in a long official grey overcoat and scary hat with short blond hair. I was scared. Yet somehow feel comforted that if we happen to be attacked by wolves of bandits – she will be able to fend them off.
November 9, 2008
Okay into the evening of the first day. I am trying to pace myself. Do not write too much. Do not read too much. Do not take out the IPod. Do not turn on the computer except to show pictures. Do get off at each rest stop. Take a chance for fresh, cool air. One thing they know on this train – heating! I thought I was going to melt last night.
So yesterday evening I befriended an older British couple in their way back to London. (They have been traveling around the for seven months – See – See – take notes Josh.) They were staying at the same hotel. While I was down in the lobby picking up WiFi, I realized they had their bags with them. I had heard them talking so I knew they spoke English. So as I was getting a water, I asked if they were waiting for a train. In fact they were – the same one I was waiting for. We chatted – and when it came time we all walked down to the station together. They are in the car next to mine and theirs in a two person berth. Very nice. I am in the four person berth. I figured it gave me a chance to meet more people. In my berth, it is me and three men in their 40s or 50s. Very nice guys. Two are friends and the other just got on the train this morning. Of the friends both are very nice, but the one does not talk or socialize much. The other has been helping me figure out Russian words so I can make real sentences. The other who just got on this morning has done the same. I am so glad I brought my computer. I was thinking about not doing so before I left, but it has been so useful in relaying the story of this lone American chick and what in the world she is doing. I even took some words I knew in English, Russian and Korean – like the words for teacher and wrote them out for them. “See, see I am slaughtering your language, but I know this other really funny looking one!!” Somehow it makes me feel vindicated.
While we were eating lunch, one of the men flipped over his knife and fork. He was making chopsticks and asking me something with a big smile. So I dug in my backpack and brought out my utensils bag – in which I had a fork, spoon, and metal Korean chopsticks. They were very impressed when I started eating the rice with them.
But they have all been very nice. Actually I have not gotten up to get my own hot water for tea or through away trash yet. Every time I did the one would shake his head and take it from me. Now I am thinking that the hot water part might be a matter of self-preservation. There is this rather intimidating contraption at the end of the car for hot water. He is probably thinking “I don’t want this clumsy fool to blow us all up!”
Day one has gone rather smoothly – five more to go. For now sit back watch the sun set and wait for dinner.
November 10, 2008
And thus bring a close to day two. Four more to go. Well kind of like 3 and 2/3. We should be pulling into Moscow around 6PM on the14th. I have passed away the time quite nicely not really doing much of anything. Even got up the energy to bundle myself up and talk a walk around the platform at the last long stop. It was dark and everything was dusted in white and it was snowing. And it was not an uneasy thought or make me uncomfortable in anyway, but I did mutter to myself “My goodness I am a long way from home.” I have never said that before. It took a snowy, dark, middle of nowhere stop in Russia to bring it out. If you would like to pull out an atlas, and I am not even sure you will find this town on there. Look to the right of the country going towards the Mongolian boarder. In English I think it would be spelled Chyernishyeusk Zab. I look at my berth-mate’s map and am floored at how little ground we have covered in 48 hours. Not like I do not come from a big country. The U.S. is not shabby on the square footage, but this is jaw dropping.
I mentioned earlier the kindness of my berth-mates. Well a few amusing stories with that. Last night I fell asleep with my day clothes on and on top of my bedding – these berths get so hot once the door is closed and everyone is sleeping. Well the gentleman on the other lower bunk reached his final stop late last night. Well as he was rolling up his bedding, he took his blanket and but it on me. Well it was either him or the very attentive gentleman above me (GAM). I was aware enough to know the blanket was put on me, but not enough to know who did it. Then the GAM right before we went into a tunnel reached over and put my reading lamp on for me. Now at that time I was laying on my stomach writing or reading. As we entered the tunnel, I realized I still had light. I looked up and thought perhaps I had left it on from before. I only realized he had done it when after we were out of the tunnel, he reached over and turned it off for me. Oh my!
Now I am noticing a trend that everything gets very quiet between 4 and 6. All the berth doors close and folks take a nap or settle on their bunks. I did so for about 30 minutes but around 4:30 got puckish. So I decided to go check out the dining car and on the way say hello to the British couple. When I left GAM was napping. I was gone for perhaps an hour or 2. When I returned people were awake and roaming around. Well, GAM sat down across from me with a bright smile and asked “Jennifer okay?” “Yes I’m okay.(smiling) I went to the restaurant and talked with …” he filled in “ah friends” “Yes English friends.” I found it very amusing that he was concerned when I was gone for a long while. Very funny.
Saturday, November 8, 2008
What do you do with a dancing sailor?
Now I know many out there have a great number of reservations about the fact that I travel alone. And believe me – to some degree I have them as well. But you do your research, plan as much as you can yet be flexible to realize that the best laid plan will go to pot at some point, be smart about safety but be open enough for new experiences.
And will all the risk that may still be there, I would never trade traveling alone for traveling with a group. There are so many encounters that would never happen any other way.
So let me tell you about the old, Russian guy in the lounge of the boat. I was sitting in one of the booths in the lounge watching a movie on my computer. And people were walking behind me to see what was going on. There are only four English speakers on the boat (myself and three guys from Canada) and there are really not that many people on the boat. So news of people who are neither Russian nor Korean travels rather fast. Especially if one happens to be an “American Woman” (please be sure to say that with a very deep, loud and boisterous Russian accent) which is what my name became among a – from what I could piece together – crew of Russian boats men traveling home.
As I am watching my movie, all of a sudden I feel someone pet the top of my head. I look up to see this old, Russian guy smiling back at me. He does it again and mutters the Russian word for beautiful. I tell him thank you but really can’t stop laughing – Come on if a guy can offer me money to marry his brother – why can’t an old, Russian guy pet my hair.
Anyway he sits down beside me. I offer him one of my earpieces to listen to the movie. We watch for a while and then begin a very rough conversation. I can shop and ask directions, but other than my Russian sucks! From what I can figure – he at one point had sailed to New Zealand. I showed him pictures of my students to drive in that I was a English teacher in Korea. I showed him pictures of Japan, India, and China. He kissed the top of my head. I was laughing so hard. It very much reminded me of the time when I took Cam and Jay to an Indian restaurant. And the old woman there took a great liking to Jay. Gave him free food and held him to her bosom. Eventually my battery ran low and I went wondering in search of an outlet. That is where I came across the Russian sailors. Oh it was so funny. Five Russian guys trying to piece together enough English to ask me questions, and they are all talking at once and so fast – I can only pick out words here and there. The one guy would keep asking his friends Kak (blahblah blah)? Kak is what. So he would ask “What is (an then some Russian word)?” And here I am thinking – Yes! Exactly what is that Russian words.
So this went round and round for a good 30 minutes or so. It was delightful. Then the dancing began. One of the guys, rather short, like a little Russian elf, through much labored miming asks if I would dance. Okay sure – why not. I am wearing my boots so there was no way this was going to be graceful. He calls for music and the other guys start clapping. It was a hoot. **** Okay I have to take a second and give it up for bread. I am currently sitting on the restaurant of my hotel in Vladivostok waiting for my dinner. I ordered a basket of bread. I have not had real – honest to God – bread in 14 months. Here I am eating a dark rye and drinking tea in Russia. I am a happy camper. ***
Okay back to the Russian sailors. So finally – and it was only 8 PM – one of the older one, but the one who first asked me to come talk, decided it was time for me to go to sleep. So after a round of hand kissing (them kissing mine), he walks me back to my bunk. I am in economy A class so it is a large area of sectioned off bunk beds. He walks me to my bunk, kisses my hand again, puts his hands together at the side of his head as if sleeping, points to the bunk and walks away. I just laid there on my bunk and laughed my butt off.
Then this morning, I go down to the lounge again and as I walk in I hear this very thick Russian accent (of course) “Ah American Woman”. And there is a big older guy smiling up at me. And this is one I have not spoken with the night before. In the end he was showing me pictures on his cell phone of his little boy, and I showed him pictures of Josh, my family, and my students in Korea on my computer.
Things to adjust to – 1) just about everyone is taller than me. I know there are some tall Koreans, but on average the men are my height and the women shorter. Now I am in the land of bears and hockey player. 2) Diminished personal space. Now it is not like India, but it certainly is not the guarded, walled distance of Korea.
*** Side not – my food is here – and I know there will be some suffering to be had this evening because I am eating Chicken Kiev. I have not made it a habit of eating meat and will always go veggie if I have the choice, but over the past year I have faced the eat meat or do not eat option while traveling. So yes Chicken Kiev in Russia. Things my stomach will not like this evening: the meat and the pool of butter that could drop a horse that it has been cooked in. But one pleasant self-discovery. On the side was this roasted tomato with melted cheese on top of some unknown veggie. I think a year ago I would have just eaten the tomato and cheese. Yet after chopped up squid and the snout soup for lunch yesterday (I only ate the noodles and broth) a little unknown veggie is no problem.
And will all the risk that may still be there, I would never trade traveling alone for traveling with a group. There are so many encounters that would never happen any other way.
So let me tell you about the old, Russian guy in the lounge of the boat. I was sitting in one of the booths in the lounge watching a movie on my computer. And people were walking behind me to see what was going on. There are only four English speakers on the boat (myself and three guys from Canada) and there are really not that many people on the boat. So news of people who are neither Russian nor Korean travels rather fast. Especially if one happens to be an “American Woman” (please be sure to say that with a very deep, loud and boisterous Russian accent) which is what my name became among a – from what I could piece together – crew of Russian boats men traveling home.
As I am watching my movie, all of a sudden I feel someone pet the top of my head. I look up to see this old, Russian guy smiling back at me. He does it again and mutters the Russian word for beautiful. I tell him thank you but really can’t stop laughing – Come on if a guy can offer me money to marry his brother – why can’t an old, Russian guy pet my hair.
Anyway he sits down beside me. I offer him one of my earpieces to listen to the movie. We watch for a while and then begin a very rough conversation. I can shop and ask directions, but other than my Russian sucks! From what I can figure – he at one point had sailed to New Zealand. I showed him pictures of my students to drive in that I was a English teacher in Korea. I showed him pictures of Japan, India, and China. He kissed the top of my head. I was laughing so hard. It very much reminded me of the time when I took Cam and Jay to an Indian restaurant. And the old woman there took a great liking to Jay. Gave him free food and held him to her bosom. Eventually my battery ran low and I went wondering in search of an outlet. That is where I came across the Russian sailors. Oh it was so funny. Five Russian guys trying to piece together enough English to ask me questions, and they are all talking at once and so fast – I can only pick out words here and there. The one guy would keep asking his friends Kak (blahblah blah)? Kak is what. So he would ask “What is (an then some Russian word)?” And here I am thinking – Yes! Exactly what is that Russian words.
So this went round and round for a good 30 minutes or so. It was delightful. Then the dancing began. One of the guys, rather short, like a little Russian elf, through much labored miming asks if I would dance. Okay sure – why not. I am wearing my boots so there was no way this was going to be graceful. He calls for music and the other guys start clapping. It was a hoot. **** Okay I have to take a second and give it up for bread. I am currently sitting on the restaurant of my hotel in Vladivostok waiting for my dinner. I ordered a basket of bread. I have not had real – honest to God – bread in 14 months. Here I am eating a dark rye and drinking tea in Russia. I am a happy camper. ***
Okay back to the Russian sailors. So finally – and it was only 8 PM – one of the older one, but the one who first asked me to come talk, decided it was time for me to go to sleep. So after a round of hand kissing (them kissing mine), he walks me back to my bunk. I am in economy A class so it is a large area of sectioned off bunk beds. He walks me to my bunk, kisses my hand again, puts his hands together at the side of his head as if sleeping, points to the bunk and walks away. I just laid there on my bunk and laughed my butt off.
Then this morning, I go down to the lounge again and as I walk in I hear this very thick Russian accent (of course) “Ah American Woman”. And there is a big older guy smiling up at me. And this is one I have not spoken with the night before. In the end he was showing me pictures on his cell phone of his little boy, and I showed him pictures of Josh, my family, and my students in Korea on my computer.
Things to adjust to – 1) just about everyone is taller than me. I know there are some tall Koreans, but on average the men are my height and the women shorter. Now I am in the land of bears and hockey player. 2) Diminished personal space. Now it is not like India, but it certainly is not the guarded, walled distance of Korea.
*** Side not – my food is here – and I know there will be some suffering to be had this evening because I am eating Chicken Kiev. I have not made it a habit of eating meat and will always go veggie if I have the choice, but over the past year I have faced the eat meat or do not eat option while traveling. So yes Chicken Kiev in Russia. Things my stomach will not like this evening: the meat and the pool of butter that could drop a horse that it has been cooked in. But one pleasant self-discovery. On the side was this roasted tomato with melted cheese on top of some unknown veggie. I think a year ago I would have just eaten the tomato and cheese. Yet after chopped up squid and the snout soup for lunch yesterday (I only ate the noodles and broth) a little unknown veggie is no problem.
Thursday, November 6, 2008
Holding in Sokcho
This is it. My time in Korea and now at an end - well will be soon if they ever load this boat and get on the way. I am currently sitting on the floor of the terminal near an outlet. The boat was scheduled to leave at 3PM; however, we are now being told it will not go 'til 5 PM. Ah well. I am glad at this point that I brought my lap top. Or else I would be beyond bored at this point.
I left Seoul this morning at 8:20 on a bus. Got to Sokcho around 12:00 - walked over here and have been waiting ever since. Korea just won't let me go!!! I really just want to sleep. I really would like to sleep right now.
I left Seoul this morning at 8:20 on a bus. Got to Sokcho around 12:00 - walked over here and have been waiting ever since. Korea just won't let me go!!! I really just want to sleep. I really would like to sleep right now.
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